FROM SLUM KID TO HEAD CHEF
MARIYA UN NOUN STRUGGLED IN THE SLUMS OF CAMBODIA DURING HER YOUNG LIFE UNTIL RELIEF ORGANIZATION SMILING GECKO BROUGHT A RAY OF HOPE
LIFE IN THE SLUMS OF PHNOM PENH IN CAMBODIA as a child is one of fear and depravity. Surrounded by vice, crime, sexual predators and illness the only way of survival is gut instinct and street smarts. And lots of luck.
Mariya Un Noun believes that everything that has happened in her life has led her to this moment of time when she shines in the world of food. She was once a girl of the streets, sold by her parents at age 12 and then forced to work as a maid. Mariya fled the ill treatment and hardship and survived on the streets on her own, with no chance of education or even the basic necessities we all take for granted.
And then good fortune found her in the name of Hannes Schmid. The Swiss humanitarian worker and photographer leads Smiling Gecko Cambodia, a relief organization that educates young people and finds jobs for them. Schmid placed Mariya in the kitchen of Farmhouse Resort and Spa, where her talent as a chef began to shine and grow, reaching high levels so that she shared the kitchens of Michelin chefs such as Andreas Caminada.
Today Mariya runs her own restaurant named UN at Farmhouse Resort and Spa. Sourcing quality farm-to-table ingredients in the surroundings she creates her brand of New Khmer Cuisine, which combines 2000-year-old classical Khmer cooking with modern elements.
A CHAT WITH CHEF MARIYA UN NOUN
- How did you cope with all the hardship that befell you during your early life?
Life before was hard, very hard. I was just a kid, 12 years old, when my mom had to send me to work for a rich family. My days were full – cleaning, cooking, taking care of babies. All I thought about was making money to help my family. I did all kinds of jobs – in factories, cleaning houses, even in hospitals. Back then, it was all about surviving. I didn’t think about passion or what I loved.
But everything changed when I met Mr. Hannes. He helped me a lot. He believed in me and supported me to become a chef. I got to study at Hotel Fachschule Lucern, worked with amazing chefs like Franck Giovannini and Andreas Caminada. They showed me the real beauty of cooking, and I found my passion.
Now, I’m living my dream. I run my own restaurant at Smiling Gecko Farmhouse Resort and Spa. I present my heritage Khmer food to guests from many parts of the world. It’s not just a job, it’s my love. It’s amazing to think about where I came from and where I am now. I’m really proud of it.
2. Photographer and Humanitarian Hannes Schmid found you on the streets and gave you a job in the kitchen. How did you know how to cook as your talent was noticeable even then?
I started cooking in a very simple way. I only knew what my mother taught me – basic home cooking. Nothing special. Then Mr. Hannes Schmid, who started Smiling Gecko and Farmhouse Resort and Spa, found me. I didn’t even know I was good at cooking.
One day, just by chance, I helped in the kitchen to prepare food for Hannes’ guests. I didn’t think I was talented; I was just trying to help. I used what I remembered from cooking with my mother and made those dishes. That’s when people, and even I, started to see that maybe I had a talent for cooking. After this, Hannes helped me get a passport and sent me to Switzerland to study at the Hotel Fachschule Lucern. That’s where I really started to think about cooking as my career. It all began so unexpectedly, but it changed my life.
3. You went on to train under a host of talented chefs and you worked hard, and life has brought you to the Michelin Star realm of Andreas Caminda. What did you learn from him in terms of cooking and food and life?
Working with Chef Andreas Caminada was a transformative experience in my culinary career. He taught me a lot about cooking and running a kitchen. In his restaurant, Schauenstein, we focused on using fresh ingredients from the farm and making dishes that taste great.
Andreas believed that the flavour of the food was more important than how it looked on the plate. This is the mantra that I have kept as I develop my cooking profile. The main goal is to make sure every guest had a great time eating our food. Sarah, Andreas’s wife, was also important in my cooking journey. They had a programme through their foundation, UCCELIN, where young chefs could learn for six months and then come work with us. This helped me start UN restaurant at the Farmhouse Resort and Spa, which became very popular in our country. Some people even think it’s one of the best in Asia.
4. Cambodia has a fascinating history spanning thousands of years from the riches of Angkor to the dark days of the Khmer Rouge to modern industrial growth. How has your country’s cuisine evolved?
Khmer cuisine, once the root of Asian food, didn’t develop much after the Khmer Rouge period. Now, young chefs in Cambodia are trying to revive its authentic flavours in a modern presentation.
5. And now as Head Chef of the two restaurants at Farmhouse Resort and Spa you want to show the world New Khmer Cuisine. How does this cuisine compare to traditional or classical Khmer food?
New Khmer Cuisine is rooted in traditional Khmer culinary traditions. We preserve the authentic flavours by utilizing locally-sourced ingredients while presenting them in a creative manner. Additionally, we incorporate modern culinary techniques to extract the best possible flavours from our ingredients. Our seven-course fine dining experience takes diners on a remarkable taste journey and is currently being served at the UN fine dining restaurant, which is renowned as one of Cambodia’s finest dining establishments.
Furthermore, we take pride in crafting special dishes with unique presentations at our Chef’s Table in a private kitchen. Here, my team and I prepare our creations in full view of guests, allowing them to witness the highest level of New Khmer Cuisine while savouring the exquisite flavours.
6. You’re a mother of 2 children since a young age. What has your life as a successful chef been able to give them that you never had as a child?
I aim to provide them with a good education, which I couldn’t have when I was young. Education is vital for them to live their dreams. I’m thankful to Smiling Gecko’s School project for offering my children the opportunity to study in a high-standard and comprehensive education programme.
7. What is your favourite Khmer food sold on the streets and what are your favourite Khmer ingredients?
In Khmer cuisine, taste is everything. It’s a journey through nature’s wonders. My favourite ingredients are those that bring out the unique flavors of Cambodia. I love using lemongrass, kaffir lime, galangal, ginger, and fingerroot. These give a special taste that you can’t find anywhere else in the world. Fish sauce and fish paste are also key for that authentic Khmer flavour, along with coconut and fresh herbs from the garden. I always try to use local ingredients. At Farmhouse Resort and Spa, we’re lucky to have our own farm where we grow organic products, and we also get ingredients from the nearby community.
My favourite Khmer food is Amok fish, a mousse-like steamed fish curry with coconut milk and herbs. It’s not just a dish; it’s a part of our rich history, going back thousands of years. This is the same dish I learned to cook from my mother. Whenever I make Amok fish, especially for guests from other countries, I hope they can feel the same warmth and love that I felt eating my mother’s cooking. It’s more than just food; it’s a taste of our culture and history.
8. How do you relax after a hard day at work?
After a long day at work, I find peace in my roots – my people, our culture, and the Khmer cuisine. We come from humble beginnings, many of us with tough pasts. Now that I’ve found a better life, I think it’s important to give back.
At my restaurant, I work with a great team of 24 local chefs. I teach them what I know, hoping they’ll become great chefs too. When I’m not in the kitchen, I love going to the villages. I spend time talking and laughing with the villagers, sharing moments. Helping them in whatever way I can. It’s these simple moments that really help me relax and feel connected.
Smiling Gecko
A humanitarian NGO project that provides education and jobs to children and young adults in rural Cambodia, Smiling Gecko was founded in 2014 by Swiss photographer Hannes Schmid.
Farmhouse Resort and Spa
Nestling in the lush countryside of Kampong Chhnang, about 65km north of Phnom Penh, the 4-star boutique resort is surrounded by picturesque paddy fields and hills. All Khmer-style bungalows of the resort have airconditioning and amenities. The resort is a part of Smiling Gecko campus, which schools and finds jobs for rural Cambodians. Restaurant UN is a fine dining restaurant owned and helmed by Chef Mariya Un Noun.
Story by Carol Kraal. Respective photographs courtesy of Smiling Gecko, Farmhouse Resort and Spa, Walter Luttenberger, DigitaleMassarbei