This popular local dish has origins in Guangdong in China, where it was a simple meal with noodles and ingredients fried together to fill the working man’s belly. Good Singapore char kway teow has a distinct wok hei or breath of the wok, as giant flames hiss and flare as they meet tossed flat rice noodles, lard oil, egg noodles, garlic, egg, Chinese sausage, beansprouts, caramelised soy sauce, chilli sauce, and broth. It is topped with fresh, barely-cooked cockles and plated. The whole process takes minutes, and control of the flames is key to the cook’s expertise.